Day 6: Sea Breezes and Slow Miles (Coombe Martin to Ilfracombe)

I woke up feeling good. The room was filled with natural light, the sound of the sea drifting in from outside, and I felt excited for the day ahead. After getting dressed, I headed down for breakfast — a full English, as standard, which usually sets me up well for the day.

Chris, the host, was chatting to me and a couple sitting next to me who were also walking the South West Coast Path. He told us stories from his time hosting — people who didn’t make it as far as they’d hoped, and even some who never made it past the monument at Minehead. For some, the journey ends before it even begins. That stuck with me. No matter how tough things had been or might get, I was doing it. I’d crossed the start line — and that’s something to be proud of.

Chris and Jane were brilliant hosts, and their place Newberry Beach Lodge is perfect for walkers. The path literally runs alongside the property, saving a bit of hill from the beach too on the path, which was very welcome. Chris asked where I was headed next. I told him Ilfracombe — a shorter day today. He said it’d be a nice walk, and I was looking forward to it. Once I had everything packed, I set off and jumped back onto the trail.

The climb out of Coombe Martin felt never-ending. Partway up, three walkers overtook me. They were moving quickly and I overheard one say, “We’re heading to Woolacombe,” followed by, “Should take about four hours.” Four hours?! I thought to myself. I imagined throwing a pine cone at them. I didn’t, obviously… but still.

Eventually, I came across Watermouth — a lovely little harbour where the coast path runs right alongside it. I stopped to take a few photos as a group of eight men passed by, also on a hike.

Later on, I met a young woman named Cindy. She was walking different sections of the path. When I told her I was aiming to do the whole thing — mostly camping — she was surprised. We chatted for a bit about the trail so far and which parts we’d liked most.

The path carried on and led past Hele Beach — a small, peaceful coastal spot with a few shops and food options. I sat there for a few minutes to enjoy the quiet and the view.

Ahead was a steep climb up the cliffs towards Ilfracombe. It was a long one, but worth it. The trail took me through tall trees and thick greenery. At one point, I wasn’t sure which way to go — left or right — until I saw a man walking two lovely dogs. He pointed me in the right direction and we chatted for a bit about the area and how close Ilfracombe was. Not far now.

His name was Gary. He carried on ahead while I slowed down — the climb was catching up with me, especially with the weight of my pack. But when I reached the top, the view was amazing. You could see Ilfracombe ahead and back towards where I’d come from. The photos didn’t do it justice, but I took a few anyway.

On the way down, I caught up with Gary again. He mentioned a few good places to eat in town, including a Wetherspoons — which I was already planning to head to, being a good and affordable option. We chatted about his regular walks and his job before retirement. It was nice to connect with someone after a quiet few days. He pointed me in the direction of the main part of town, wished me luck, and I told him about my trip and where how to follow along online if he was interested.

Ilfracombe was busy and full of life. I headed straight to Spoons for some food, then grabbed a few bits from the shop before going to the hotel. Annoyingly I did not fully recognise the famous statue, but managed to take a photo of it.... oh dear... maybe next time!

I stayed at the Dilkhusa Grand Hotel, which is being renovated at the moment, but my room was spot on — comfy bed, a proper desk, a decent shower, and a bit of privacy. Everything I needed. It cost £113.60 for two nights, including a hot buffet breakfast each morning, which was great value. I’d planned a two-night stop here to get some work done in the evening and across the next full day. If you would like to stay at the Dilkhusa Grand Hotel then click here.

I slept well that night. The next day I got stuck into some work after a cracking breakfast, but still made time to explore the town a bit too.

Next stop: Woolacombe.

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